Pondicherry, The French Capital Of India

The tree-lined avenues, the 18th century churches, an old 19th century lighthouse and a statue of Joan of Arc, will make us wonder at some point if we have really traveled to India.
Pondicherry, the French capital of India

On the west coast of Tamil Nadu, and less than 200 kilometers from Chennai, we discovered Pondicherry. A curious city that was the former capital of the French territories of India. But in a country of contrasts like this, it is not too surprising to find the precious enclave lost in time that is Pondycherry.

Purchased from the Sultan of Golconda in 1763, Pondicherry belonged to the French territories of India until 1954, when it returned to its home country.

It is a charming and very original coastal metropolis, which maintains a strong French influence. The city is divided in two by a canal. In one area the Hindu population resided, and in the other the French citizens did.

Its magnificent colonial houses, the bazaars of the old city or the walks along the Promenade, the Beach Road promenade, make a stay in this city a different experience within India. A visit that takes us back to a bygone era, but still very much alive.

A very original city

Pondicherry Street
Pondicherry Street

The tree-lined avenues of Pondicherry with their Gallic names, the churches, an old lighthouse and even a statue of Joan Arc… There are corners that  will make us wonder if we have really traveled to India.

Meanwhile, in the old French Quarter the botanical garden is still preserved, founded in 1826 and which houses many species of exotic trees. Or Bharthi Park, a garden full of fountains and wonderful trees, very much in the French taste. Even the local police wear the tricolor flag on their caps.

In contrast, Pondicherry is also home to one of the best-known ashram in India. A spiritual center that receives numerous visits from Western followers. This was the origin of Auroville, later built on the outskirts of the city.

The Pondicherry Ashram

Pondiccherry ashram
Ashram – Devaiah PA / Flickr.com

It is one of the most famous meditation centers in India. It was founded by Sri Aurobindo, a yogi, philosopher and poet, along with his wife, a French mystic who was known as “The Mother.” Together they opened this ashram in 1926. Today, many cultural passes and meditation sessions are organized here.

It is a peaceful retreat designed like a mandala. In the center we find a gigantic structure in the shape of a golden ball that acts as the central nucleus of the mandala. Sri Aurobindo settled in Pondicherry fleeing from the English and in this retreat he taught integral yoga, a discipline of spirit development.

Pondicherry, a trendy destination

Beach in Pondicherry
Beach in Pondicherry – Damien Roué / Flickr.com

Pondicherry appears in the lists of most recommended destinations in 2019. Its beaches are paradisiacal. Beaches that, in contrast to the colonial buildings and their temples of Tamil architecture, achieve a harmonious effect with a strong Mediterranean accent within the always chaotic and unpredictable India.

Serenity Beach stands out, a bit on the outskirts, but in which it is worth getting lost. Also worth a visit is Reppo Beach, to the north, with fantastic white sand, palm trees and a great beach atmosphere. Another alternative is Auroville Beach, ideal for swimming because it has practically no waves and its waters are shallow.

Gastronomy

Seafood and fish are in many of the very good restaurants in a place with a taste of class and distinction. French cuisine has a huge representation in Pondicherry. Even in its markets, where you can find almost any French-speaking delicatessen .

There are different gastronomic tours, very fashionable here as well, in which you can taste Indian food, both in common places and in the private homes of some residents that offer this service. A wonderful variety of international flavors mixed with traditional Indian cuisine.

Some restaurants have specialized in a mixture of French food and typical South Indian dishes. The result is a wonderful Creole cooking experience based on seafood.

In short, Pondicherry is a very tempting offer for this year. A colonial, maritime destination full of miscegenation. Do you include it in your list of places to discover?

We embark on an exotic tour of India

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