Peñalba De Santiago, The Charm Of The Traditional

Located 1100 meters high between the Cabeza de la Yegua peak and Morredero, in the municipality of Ponferrada, Peñalba de Santiago is an ancient and truly beautiful town in León. It is worth getting lost in its narrow streets to take a trip back in time and learn more about its origins and culture.

Peñalba de Santiago , a town with only 21 inhabitants

Its original name was Santiago de Peñalba and it has a church of Mozarabic architecture from the 10th century. That is not the only thing that catches the attention of travelers, but the fact that in recent years its average population is 21 people. The “overcrowding” of 2001… it was 29 neighbors! Today there are 8 less and most are dedicated to tourism.

When you arrive in Peñalba de Santiago, you will feel that you have arrived at your relatives’ house. They are very friendly and helpful, quite the opposite of the founder of the town, San Genadio, a hermit who lived in a cave after being bishop of Astorga.

Peñalba de Santiago: nature at its finest

The town was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest in 2008 for its huge ethnological complex. A walk through this place will take your breath away because of its simple beauty.

But, in addition, it is one of the most beautiful places in Castilla y León, due to its lush oak forests, the virgin valley, the waterfalls in the rivers and the tranquility that many of us seek when living in the big city.

The town is located on a rock, from which its name derives. Snow covers it completely in winter creating an amazing postcard. To get to the center of Peñalba de Santiago, it is necessary to walk the “Senda de los Monjes” while we enjoy the cliffs and the 3 peaks of Aguiana, Pico Tuerto and Silla de la Yegua.

Peñalba de Santiago and its Mozarabic church

If we talk about Peñalba de Santiago, we cannot ignore its most important attraction, without counting the natural surroundings of course: the Mozarabic church. It is located in the center of the town, in front of the square, between Bajada Silencio and Iglesia streets. There are only 5 streets in the town so you will not have problems: Rincón, Real Paseo, Bajada Silencio, Iglesia, Amalio Fernández and Fuente.

But going back to the star of Peñalba de Santiago, the church, there is much to tell about it … It has more than 10 centuries of life! It was built in limestone and slate masonry, like the other buildings in the town. It is in the shape of a cross and its walls are more than 70 cm thick.

As in Mozarabic architecture, the main access faces south. The façade is beautiful but austere : there are two horseshoe arches with marble columns and Corinthian capitals.

Once you enter the church (made in a single phase) you will see its double apse and two more compartments: the nave and the presbytery. All are independent of the others (something common in Cordovan constructions of the 9th century). Saint Genadius was buried in the vault, although he was removed from there in the 16th century.

Undoubtedly, it is an integration between the Mozarabic and Hispano-Visigothic culture, because it has aspects of both styles. It is open to the public from Wednesday to Sunday and admission is free. Hours vary by season. In winter it opens from 10:40 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and from 3:00 p.m. to 5:50 p.m. and in summer from 10:15 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and from 4:30 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.

In the surroundings of Peñalba de Santiago we recommend that you walk through the Valley of Silence and the caves where the founder of the town used to retire to meditate. There you can find a church built by Abbot Solomon in his honor.

A place taken from a fairy tale, between mountains with snowy peaks, lots of vegetation and a great history,  that is what Peñalba de Santiago offers you, with its stone and wood houses with roofed balconies and, of course, its beautiful and old church. Spend a beautiful day in this beautiful place and breathe nature, culture and above all a lot of peace.